Rome, the Eternal City

I have been struggling with what to say about Rome. Of all the places I visited in Italy, Rome was the most alive, even in late November and early December. It has such energy, it is almost visible. It is loud and frenzied, chaotic, yet somehow grand and stately at the same time. History is everywhere, mixed in with the busy traffic, streetlights and modern day buildings. To walk down a dimly lit street at night and round a corner to come upon the top of the Spanish Steps is remarkable. At night they are deserted and the spot is about as close to silent as one can get in Rome. It was quite beautiful to look down from the top, over the marble steps down to the street below, brightly lit for the Christmas season.

Don and I stayed at the Hotel Valadier. It is a 4 star hotel close to most of the tourist sites in Rome and it is a bit unusual. The decor is a throw back to the 1960s with black and white lucite and lots of mirrors everywhere...even on the ceiling above our bed! It was very disconcerting and I walked into a mirrored wall more than once. The room was very small and we had lots of luggage as I had been touring Italy for 3 months, so it was even more cramped. We had a Juliet balcony overlooking a tiny courtyard and a vent from the restaurant that sent delicious scents up to our room when we left the balcony door open, which was almost all the time, as our room was so hot. The weather was unusually warm in Rome and it was necessary to open the door to try to cool the room. Apparently all of Italy turns on the heat November 1st and can’t turn it off if the weather is unseasonably warm, as it was while we were there. The bed was comfortable and the bathroom, although small, was pretty with all its pinky orange marble walls. I was a bit disappointed with the size of the room but otherwise I was pleasantly surprised by this hotel. The staff were wonderful and the included breakfast was amazing. This hotel has several restaurants, and we tried them all. The food was wonderful and reasonably priced. There is a roof top bar which we visited when we arrived where we were lucky enough to spot a huge flock of swallows flying in unison in large drifts, as if set to music. The shapes created undulated in the most amazing patterns against the backdrop of the sun setting over Rome. It was beautiful to watch the rhythmic movement as each and every bird seemed to know exactly where to go in order to fly in unison creating the most pleasing image, and then suddenly, in unison, they would change direction and the shape would shift to something new. This went on and on until the sky was dark. Were they all dancing together before settling to roost for the night? I felt privileged to have witnessed their dance. What a beautiful introduction to Rome. The hotel was just off one of the main shopping streets in Rome and an easy walk to most tourist sites in the old city. We walked everywhere, except to the Vatican. One day we took a tour of the Forum and the Coliseum and the next we booked a tour of the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. It was quite odd to see both the Coliseum and the Forum, thousands of years old, surrounded by the busy streets of Rome. The city is like that, with historical remnants of a past civilization strewn across its present day landscape as if by accident. Who knows how much more still lies deep beneath the present day city.

To me it feels as if Rome still holds many secrets, some of which we are only scratching the surface of. It seems to me as if all that we know about Roman history is but a drop in the bucket when compared to what life must have been like there centuries ago. I can’t imagine a civilization barbaric enough to enjoy such blood sports as those that went on in the Coliseum. The opulence and the beauty of the ancient architecture surrounded the noble and the rich while the rest of the population were barely more than slaves. Some had every indulgence imaginable while others had none. Perhaps there are lessons to be learned from that civilization, lessons that could be applied to today’s consumer based lifestyle. Today it seems the majority are not willing to work for what they want in life, we want it now rather than later. People seem to expect all the perks and self indulgences. “I want it all, and I want it now!” I believe this attitude has led to the current economic crisis facing the world today. One of my favorite landmarks in Rome is the Trevi Fountain. It is always a busy spot with tourists and lovers milling about, making wishes and throwing coins over their shoulders into the beautifully lit water. We visited the fountain several times of day in hopes of finding a quiet time there to sit and really take it all in. Alas, everyone else in Rome must have had the same idea. No worries though, the streets leading to the fountain are lined with many restaurants and interesting shops. We had dinner one night on an outside terrace near there and lingered to people watch and observe the comings and goings of motor scooters, taxis, limos and hustlers trying to entice tourists with all kinds of knock offs. They are ever pestering everyone they come across, handing them a free rose just to get their attention. If you accept one, you are doomed as you won’t be able to get rid of them. Others come running and they mill around you, trying to out sell each other, complimenting you , touching you, badgering, and trying to hustle you; it was very unnerving and it made me hang on tightly to my purse and Don’s wallet!

The Vatican is both amazing and appalling. Such wealth and opulence displayed in the museum and in St Peter’s Basilica. I was raised Roman Catholic but no longer follow that religion. It is appalling to me that the Roman Catholic Church is one of the richest organizations in the world while people are starving to death in many parts of the world. This seems in contradiction to the very values the religion is based upon. Does the Church not practice what it preaches to its followers? Despite the disagreeable taste this leaves in my mouth I cannot help but be impressed by the magnitude of the Vatican’s art collection. St Peter’s is stunning as well. We decided to take the trip up to the top of the dome of the Basilica. A short elevator ride took us up to the roof of the nave next to the dome. From here we began the climb around the circumference of the dome. The stairway was narrow and as we climbed higher it became steeper and narrower. Closer to the top the walls of the stairway seemed to close in even more and we had to lean to the inside to keep from hitting our heads. There were few windows or places to rest. I reached a point where I could not go on and sat to rest on a thick windowsill. Once I had caught my breath I had to find my way back down by going down the up staircase. This was very difficult as there was a constant stream of people climbing up and the stairs are barely wide enough for one person to pass. I waited on the rooftop of the nave until Don came back down. He climbed all the way to the top which is the highest point in all of Rome. Quite an accomplishment for someone 62 years young! The view must have been spectacular.

Rome is also a city of high fashion. The women are dressed impeccably in the latest fashions with their hair coifed, nails painted, and full makeup adorning their faces. High boots paired with very short skirts seemed to be the latest trend. I cannot understand how they can walk on cobblestones in stiletto heels, but they manage to carry it off looking elegant ad poised. During the day, the streets lined with shops were so packed with pedestrians that they took to the street, despite the motor scooters, bikes, cars and trucks. Sidewalks are narrow and often blocked by parked cars and motorbikes. The noise is overwhelming, people talking, yelling to one another or at the person at the other end of the cell phone clutched to their ear. Horns honking, drivers yelling and gesturing at people to get out of the way, motorbikes and car engines, sirens, and the music playing in the stores drifting out to the street; some may find this exciting but I find it overwhelming. It reinforces my decision to live in the country rather than in the city. Italians in Rome always seem to be in a hurry although this does not seem to be the case anywhere else in Italy. Customer service in Rome is unlike the rest of Italy as well. Customers are greeted when they enter a store and a salesclerk offers assistance and seems genuinely interested in helping you find what you are looking for. This was unexpected and delightful as my experience elsewhere in Italy was the opposite. Rome was my least favorite city in Italy, mostly due to the noise and confusion everywhere. It is a beautiful city albeit a bit overwhelming. I have been there twice now and there is still so much to see.