Rome, the Eternal City

I have been struggling with what to say about Rome. Of all the places I visited in Italy, Rome was the most alive, even in late November and early December. It has such energy, it is almost visible. It is loud and frenzied, chaotic, yet somehow grand and stately at the same time. History is everywhere, mixed in with the busy traffic, streetlights and modern day buildings. To walk down a dimly lit street at night and round a corner to come upon the top of the Spanish Steps is remarkable. At night they are deserted and the spot is about as close to silent as one can get in Rome. It was quite beautiful to look down from the top, over the marble steps down to the street below, brightly lit for the Christmas season.

Don and I stayed at the Hotel Valadier. It is a 4 star hotel close to most of the tourist sites in Rome and it is a bit unusual. The decor is a throw back to the 1960s with black and white lucite and lots of mirrors everywhere...even on the ceiling above our bed! It was very disconcerting and I walked into a mirrored wall more than once. The room was very small and we had lots of luggage as I had been touring Italy for 3 months, so it was even more cramped. We had a Juliet balcony overlooking a tiny courtyard and a vent from the restaurant that sent delicious scents up to our room when we left the balcony door open, which was almost all the time, as our room was so hot. The weather was unusually warm in Rome and it was necessary to open the door to try to cool the room. Apparently all of Italy turns on the heat November 1st and can’t turn it off if the weather is unseasonably warm, as it was while we were there. The bed was comfortable and the bathroom, although small, was pretty with all its pinky orange marble walls. I was a bit disappointed with the size of the room but otherwise I was pleasantly surprised by this hotel. The staff were wonderful and the included breakfast was amazing. This hotel has several restaurants, and we tried them all. The food was wonderful and reasonably priced. There is a roof top bar which we visited when we arrived where we were lucky enough to spot a huge flock of swallows flying in unison in large drifts, as if set to music. The shapes created undulated in the most amazing patterns against the backdrop of the sun setting over Rome. It was beautiful to watch the rhythmic movement as each and every bird seemed to know exactly where to go in order to fly in unison creating the most pleasing image, and then suddenly, in unison, they would change direction and the shape would shift to something new. This went on and on until the sky was dark. Were they all dancing together before settling to roost for the night? I felt privileged to have witnessed their dance. What a beautiful introduction to Rome. The hotel was just off one of the main shopping streets in Rome and an easy walk to most tourist sites in the old city. We walked everywhere, except to the Vatican. One day we took a tour of the Forum and the Coliseum and the next we booked a tour of the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel. It was quite odd to see both the Coliseum and the Forum, thousands of years old, surrounded by the busy streets of Rome. The city is like that, with historical remnants of a past civilization strewn across its present day landscape as if by accident. Who knows how much more still lies deep beneath the present day city.

To me it feels as if Rome still holds many secrets, some of which we are only scratching the surface of. It seems to me as if all that we know about Roman history is but a drop in the bucket when compared to what life must have been like there centuries ago. I can’t imagine a civilization barbaric enough to enjoy such blood sports as those that went on in the Coliseum. The opulence and the beauty of the ancient architecture surrounded the noble and the rich while the rest of the population were barely more than slaves. Some had every indulgence imaginable while others had none. Perhaps there are lessons to be learned from that civilization, lessons that could be applied to today’s consumer based lifestyle. Today it seems the majority are not willing to work for what they want in life, we want it now rather than later. People seem to expect all the perks and self indulgences. “I want it all, and I want it now!” I believe this attitude has led to the current economic crisis facing the world today. One of my favorite landmarks in Rome is the Trevi Fountain. It is always a busy spot with tourists and lovers milling about, making wishes and throwing coins over their shoulders into the beautifully lit water. We visited the fountain several times of day in hopes of finding a quiet time there to sit and really take it all in. Alas, everyone else in Rome must have had the same idea. No worries though, the streets leading to the fountain are lined with many restaurants and interesting shops. We had dinner one night on an outside terrace near there and lingered to people watch and observe the comings and goings of motor scooters, taxis, limos and hustlers trying to entice tourists with all kinds of knock offs. They are ever pestering everyone they come across, handing them a free rose just to get their attention. If you accept one, you are doomed as you won’t be able to get rid of them. Others come running and they mill around you, trying to out sell each other, complimenting you , touching you, badgering, and trying to hustle you; it was very unnerving and it made me hang on tightly to my purse and Don’s wallet!

The Vatican is both amazing and appalling. Such wealth and opulence displayed in the museum and in St Peter’s Basilica. I was raised Roman Catholic but no longer follow that religion. It is appalling to me that the Roman Catholic Church is one of the richest organizations in the world while people are starving to death in many parts of the world. This seems in contradiction to the very values the religion is based upon. Does the Church not practice what it preaches to its followers? Despite the disagreeable taste this leaves in my mouth I cannot help but be impressed by the magnitude of the Vatican’s art collection. St Peter’s is stunning as well. We decided to take the trip up to the top of the dome of the Basilica. A short elevator ride took us up to the roof of the nave next to the dome. From here we began the climb around the circumference of the dome. The stairway was narrow and as we climbed higher it became steeper and narrower. Closer to the top the walls of the stairway seemed to close in even more and we had to lean to the inside to keep from hitting our heads. There were few windows or places to rest. I reached a point where I could not go on and sat to rest on a thick windowsill. Once I had caught my breath I had to find my way back down by going down the up staircase. This was very difficult as there was a constant stream of people climbing up and the stairs are barely wide enough for one person to pass. I waited on the rooftop of the nave until Don came back down. He climbed all the way to the top which is the highest point in all of Rome. Quite an accomplishment for someone 62 years young! The view must have been spectacular.

Rome is also a city of high fashion. The women are dressed impeccably in the latest fashions with their hair coifed, nails painted, and full makeup adorning their faces. High boots paired with very short skirts seemed to be the latest trend. I cannot understand how they can walk on cobblestones in stiletto heels, but they manage to carry it off looking elegant ad poised. During the day, the streets lined with shops were so packed with pedestrians that they took to the street, despite the motor scooters, bikes, cars and trucks. Sidewalks are narrow and often blocked by parked cars and motorbikes. The noise is overwhelming, people talking, yelling to one another or at the person at the other end of the cell phone clutched to their ear. Horns honking, drivers yelling and gesturing at people to get out of the way, motorbikes and car engines, sirens, and the music playing in the stores drifting out to the street; some may find this exciting but I find it overwhelming. It reinforces my decision to live in the country rather than in the city. Italians in Rome always seem to be in a hurry although this does not seem to be the case anywhere else in Italy. Customer service in Rome is unlike the rest of Italy as well. Customers are greeted when they enter a store and a salesclerk offers assistance and seems genuinely interested in helping you find what you are looking for. This was unexpected and delightful as my experience elsewhere in Italy was the opposite. Rome was my least favorite city in Italy, mostly due to the noise and confusion everywhere. It is a beautiful city albeit a bit overwhelming. I have been there twice now and there is still so much to see.

Venice in November

The last time I was in Venice was in mid-October of 2008. At that time I was so disappointed to see so much graffiti on the buildings along the many canals. This time, I didn't notice any graffiti at all. However, Venice had on her usual make-up, although it did look bit tired. Her lipstick is smudged and her mascara has run in long black streaks down her face. She reminds me of a homeless woman I used to see around the Sheppard’s of Good Hope in Ottawa. Her blue eye shadow applied thickly from her eyelids to her drawn-on brows, mascara and eyeliner so poorly applied that black smudges appeared both above and below her eyes. Blotches of pink blush adorned her sallow cheeks and her bright red lipstick, applied with a shaking hand, looked like an angry red gash across her face. Her dyed blonde hair hung around her face in a tangled mass. She would stand on the corner with her hand out, hoping for a few coins from passers-by.
This s not unlike Venice, her old and tired makeup showing her age and making her look a bit shabby as she tries to coerce tourists into parting with their hard earned dollars.
The canals are dark and the wet stone walls of the buildings lining them are covered with green algae and black mould. The air is damp and dank. The damp seems to go right through my clothing causing a chill that can't be warmed.

This is not to say that Venice is not beautiful in its own right, in fact it can be downright intoxicating. When I was able to overlook it’s tired, crumbling foundation it was easy to get carried away with its glitz and romance. Brightly lit shops selling every sort of souvenir imaginable line the streets along with the countless restaurants beckoning pedestrians to come inside. The shop windows display brightly coloured Murano glass pieces, carnival masks and costumes, jewellery and fine Italian designer clothing. The streets twist and meander and where they intersect there are often openings into small squares sporting benches and trees. It is easy to get turned around and get lost, especially in the dark.

In the daylight Venice shines. The canals sparkle. Colourful boats motor up and down the Grand Canal and the sleek black Gondolas seem to just silently glide through the water.

Even in November Venice is host to many tourists. As we wandered down the streets window shopping we became aware of the many different languages being spoken around us. Everyone seems to be happy despite the chill in the air. Venice must have recently flooded as we see pools of water in low lying places and the scafolding used to create elevated walkways is still in place near the Basilica. This happens here quite regularly and the Venitians seem to just take it in stride. St Mark's Square, and even the inside of the Basilica can be under a foot of water in October at high tide. The water level in the canals also rises which can result in flooded basements as well.

We visited the Doge's Palace and toured the attached prison and the Bridge of Sighs. The prison was a scary place, all stone, dank and dark, no wonder prisoners sighed while crossing the bridge from the Palace's Court to the Prison after sentancing. You could just imagine prisoners locked up here, praying to die before they starved to death or caught some ugly disease resulting from being bitten by rats. It sent a chill through me just being there. What a contrast to the beautiful palace at the other end of the bridge.

While in Venice, Don and I stayed at a hotel on Lido Island. We took the ferries back and forth each day to the mainland. The hotel is a former palace and is beautiful both inside and out. Lido Island is also the only island in Venice with a sand beach which we visited on our last day in Venice. Don's favorite thing in Venice was watching a hockey game, in english in our room one evening while eating a pizza with a glass of wine. Detroit and New York Rangers were playing on American Thanksgiving and it was picked up by Italian tv..a little bit of home when so far away was comforting.

We could not leave Venice without taking a gondola ride, which we enjoyed on our last afternoon in Venice. Seeing the city from this perspective is quite different and definetly romantic as well as expensive.

Beautiful Florence

Don and I returned to Castelmuzio after a 3 day impromptu visit to Florence.  We left on Friday morning with a plan to spend the day in the city and return to the house in Castelmuzio in the evening.  We parked the car at Piazzale Michelangelo and walked down the hill and across the bridge over the Arno River into the old city of Florence.  Following Rick Steve’s book we headed for the Tourist Information spot in front of the Santa Croce church.  We found the location inside an unmarked building, but apparently the office had been closed for months.  We headed to the Duomo as there was apparently another office there.  We found it right across the street from the Hotel we had decided to stay at.  Armed with the Rick Steves recommended free publications, we decided to check in to our hotel and then headed off to explore the city.  The Europa Hotel on Via Cavour was recommended to me by Chris and Sylvia who stayed there in September.  It is on the second floor of an older building almost directly across the street from the Tourist Information Office.  Entering the building, we climbing the stairs to the second floor  (4 flights of stairs) and there was an unpleasant odor that almost caused me to turn around and look for another hotel  elsewhere.  There is an old tiny elevator which we worried might not be safe.  The building seemed dank and dark.  However, we could not have been more surprised or pleased once we reached the second floor and entered the doors to the hotel.  The odor was gone, the space was well lit and cheerful.  We did not have reservations but were able to get a nice double room for 69 euros a night.  We stayed in Room 52 which had a view of the Duomo.  The room was well maintained, clean and comfortable.  The bathroom was spotless and looked new.  The hotel staff and owners were friendly, very helpful, and spoke excellent English.  There is a cold buffet breakfast included as well as WiFi access in the rooms. They will also keep your luggage for you after check out until you are ready to leave. This hotel only has a 3 star rating, perhaps because of the poor first impression the building makes, but the hotel itself deserves a higher rating.  I would recommend Hotel  Europa to anyone wanting to stay in the heart of the old city, close to all the attractions and shopping,  at a very reasonable price.

Florence is a lovely city, very clean and lively.  Shopping in Florence is less expensive than Siena.  There is also more English spoken there.  Restaurants can be expensive, as in any city.  We ate at a very good restaurant called BVCA San Giovanni, right off the square in front of the Duomo.  We shared a Florentine steak which is an enormous T-bone that was absolutely  delicious.  The old city of Florence is small enough that it is possible to walk from one end to the other in no time.  The streets are lined with shops encouraging visitors to stroll and window shop.  There was an open air market when we were there, with many stalls set up in the streets selling leather jackets, belts, purses and wallets; scarves, jewellery,  t-shirts, and just about everything else you could think of.  It reminded me of the Sunday flea markets back home. 

 In another area, near the Uffizi  gallery there were 2 people set up to look like statues, one in Egyptian garb, complete with mask and the other in white plaster covered clothes and white painted face.  Some people did not realize these were not statues and were startled when the statue came to life.  Don posed with one while I took his picture and when she pulled his head into her bosom he laughed so hard he could hardly breath.   (see photo below)

We visited the Academia and the Uffizi galleries, saw Michelangelo’s David and so much religious art that after a while, we both lost interest.  Window shopping along Ponte Vecchio was fun.   It is famous for the jewellers’ shops that line both sides of the bridge over the Arno River.

We enjoyed strolling around in the evenings as well and we always felt safe.  We both enjoyed Florence much more than Siena.   Our parking was free, the hotel inexpensive, and because of the time of year, there was no waiting to see any attractions.  We were quite comfortable wearing leather jackets with light scarves, it’s definitely warmer here than at home.

We went back to Castelmuzio for a few days to rest up before heading off to Venice for a few days.  We stayed in a hotel that used to be a palace on Lido Island.  I stayed there when on a tour of Italy in October 2008. It is very beautiful inside and out.  I will write more on this trip soon.

Ciao for now!

Diane

Steam Trains and White Truffles

November 13^th Don and I spent the day on a steam train excursion to San Giovanni  D’Asso to attend the town’s White Truffle Festival.  The Steam Train was fun and we travelled for 3 hours through the Crete Sensi south of Siena.  When the train arrived at the tiny station we climbed the hill to the town and walked down the main street  to an area reserved for those of us on the train who had signed up for the special  lunch offered that included dishes featuring white and black truffles.  The food was delicious and there were so many courses I lost count.  The wine flowed freely and everyone had a great time.  Afterwards we explored the town a bit and then heard music so we walked towards it to discover a female percussion group making their way down the main street to the town square.  We listened for awhile and then made our way slowly down the hill to the train.  

The trip back to Siena seemed shorter and we arrived just as the sun was setting.  We got a hotel room and stayed a few nights in Siena.  Our impression of the city is that it is very commercial and very expensive.   The Duomo is spectacular both inside and out.  The streets in Siena seem to be a jumble and the hills are incredibly steep.  We ended up parking the car inside the old city at a public lot and it cost us 60 euros for 2 days.  The hill we had to climb with our luggage was unbelievable.  We got lost several times as well.  Siena is not a favourite destination for us.

I have not been able to post new entries to my blog lately because the internet point at the hotel is not working and the one in Pienza is closed.  At the best of times, internet access and even cell phone reception here is sketchy which is incredibly frustrating.  I did not expect that communicating would be such an issue here.  The Italians seem to accept this and when a call is dropped they just shrug their shoulders and call back or move on to something else.  This would never be acceptable in North America.

There are far fewer people around now and on occasion when we have visited small hill towns it seems as if we are the only ones there.  The trees are changing colours and the vineyards are shades of gold and crimson.  The olive harvest is still in full swing and new oil is available everywhere.  I find it has a slight peppery taste.  Yesterday while driving through the countryside I noticed a vineyard being prepared for winter.  The vines had been removed from the stakes and wires and laid on the ground to be covered over with compost and soil as protection against freezing.  This reminded me of home where this is common practice as Canadian winters are much more severe than in Italy.  The weather here has been unusual, having hardly rained in the three months that I have been here.  Farmers are concerned that the winter winds will further dry out the vines.  Hopefully this will not damage the vines or next year’s crop.  That would spell disaster for the locals who are already struggling with current economic conditions here.  It is not an easy life for them here.  Don has remarked often how difficult it must be to work the farm land here as it is so hilly.  Many tractors here don’t have wheels, they run on tracks like tanks and still it is remarkable that they don’t tip over while working the incredibly steep hills.

My next entry will be about the 3 days we spent in Florence.

Ciao for now